Visiting Rome with children: a three-day itinerary

If you are in Rome for three days of sightseeing, we suggest the route below, which will let you discover Rome through its most emblematic monuments as well as the more popular Trastevere district, and to leave the centre for the ancient city of Ostia. We have nevertheless chosen not to include the Vatican Museums, which would take a great deal of time and are of less interest to children.

Practical information

Ideally, start early so that you can be at the Basilica of St John Lateran by 8:30/9:00. Plan your visit to the Colosseum or the Palatine/Forum from 10:30/11:00 onwards. Booking tickets for the Colosseum (combined ticket with the Palatine and the Forum) is compulsory and must be made far enough ahead to secure a slot. Book online at https://parcocolosseo.it/

Visit budget: admission to the Colosseum–Palatine–Forum, the climb to the Victor Emmanuel II monument, the dome of St Peter’s Basilica, Castel Sant’Angelo and Ostia Antica are charged.

Your day 1 schedule at a glance

Day 1 visiting route

Start by heading to the Basilica of St John Lateran (San Giovanni in Laterano), the cathedral of Rome and one of the most important places in Christendom. If you arrive via the metro station of the same name, you will have the chance to pass through the ancient city walls.

Begin your visit to the basilica by entering through the main façade (the one with the statues at the top). After admiring the monumental interior, you can visit the charming cloister (charged). Leave by the right-hand side of the transept to reach the square adorned with an obelisk. Then visit the Baptistery, which stands on the square.

Cross the road and take Via di San Giovanni in Laterano on the left as far as the Colosseum.

Visiting the Colosseum, the Palatine and the Forum takes quite a long time, so think about planning lunch. Depending on the time slot booked for the Colosseum, you will either start with that or with the Palatine/Forum complex.

If you have not planned to eat in a restaurant (there are many around here), you will find plenty of bars and snack spots along the way. A chance to take a break and also to buy a takeaway sandwich that you can eat later around the Colosseum or the Palatine. For a sandwich, we recommend Pane et Vino at 10 Via Ostilia. If you prefer a sit-down meal, you can return to the area, for example to the Naumachia restaurant at 7 Via Celimontana, for a good pizza or pasta and other dishes. You can finish with an ice cream at Gelateria da Costanza at 40 Via di S. Giovanni in Laterano!

You then arrive at the Colosseum, the largest and most famous amphitheatre of antiquity. Start with a visit — always impressive and sure to fascinate children.

On the way out, head for the Arch of Constantine nearby, between the Colosseum and the entrance to the Palatine. This triumphal arch was built to celebrate Constantine’s victory at the Battle of the Milvian Bridge.

A visit to the Palatine is your next stop. We recommend using the entrance on Via di San Gregorio, which takes you straight up onto the hill. The ruins on the Palatine may not be the most impressive, but a walk through this park is pleasant and offers fine views over the city and especially over the Roman Forums below.

Then go down the hill to reach the Forum, which you walk through between the Arch of Titus (on the Colosseum side) and the Arch of Septimius Severus at the opposite end.

At the end of the visit, take the exit onto Via dei Fori Imperiali. Cross the road and continue along Via Alessandrina, which will let you discover a whole series of forum remains until you reach the famous Column of Trajan, a true comic strip recounting Trajan’s military campaigns against the Dacians.

Cross the road to reach the imposing monument dedicated to Victor Emmanuel II and access the Terrace of the Quadrigas (charged) at the top. To reach the lift, which is very poorly signed, you will need to start with an exploratory phase from the front or the back of the building that will also let you discover the monument. Do not hesitate to ask the staff for directions! The terrace offers a superb view not only of the monument’s quadrigas but also of the forums, the Palatine and the Colosseum, as well as the whole city as far as St Peter’s Basilica.

Leave the Victor Emmanuel II monument by the front and take Via del Teatro del Marcello on the left, which brings you to the foot of the steps leading up to the superb Piazza del Campidoglio, designed by Michelangelo and featured on Italian 50-cent euro coins. Take the chance to admire the view over the Forum by going along the little Via del Campidoglio and coming out onto Via Monte Tarpeo.

Retrace your steps and go back down the staircase to reach Palazzo Farnese through the little streets.

At the bottom of the Campidoglio steps, turn left onto Via del Teatro di Marcello as far as this ancient theatre, later turned into a fortress and then a palace. Walk alongside it along Via del Foro Piscario then right along Via del Portico d’Ottavia, a chance to discover a number of ancient remains.

Continue along the streets via Via di S. Maria del Pianto, cross the little square of Piazza Benedetto Cairol and turn left onto Via di S. Maria in Monticelli, then right up Via di S. Paolo alla Regola, which becomes Via Capo di Ferro. Along the way, take a look at the elegant Palazzo Spada. If the courtyard is open, go in to admire the fine colonnade whose perspective makes it seem far longer than it really is.

Continue on your way to arrive at Piazza Farnese. As well as the two monumental fountains from the Baths of Caracalla, the square is home to Palazzo Farnese, the seat of the French embassy. It is considered the finest palace in Rome.

Turn your back on the palace and take Via Dei Baullari, which leads to the lively Campo de’ Fiori. You will find plenty of terraces here for a break over a coffee or a drink!

Leave the square by Via Dei Baullari (with your back to Palazzo Farnese) as far as Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, which you cross to reach Piazza di S. Pantaleo. Pass on the right-hand side along Via della Cuccagna, which opens onto the famous Piazza Navona, one of the finest squares in Rome. Walk around it and admire the various fountains that adorn it. Its elliptical shape follows the outline of the track of Domitian’s ancient stadium. In the centre, the Fountain of the Four Rivers representing the four continents is a work by Bernini.

Leave the square from its centre, along Corsia Agonale. Turn left then immediately right to cross Corso del Rinascimento and reach Via del Salvatore, which you follow uphill. This street becomes Via Giustiniani and opens onto Piazza della Rotonda, where the Pantheon stands.
Visit the Pantheon: this ancient temple converted into a church has come down to us almost intact.

You can dine in the area; there are many restaurants here. If you wish to dine right on the square we suggest, for example, Ristorante Di Rienzo, with perfectly decent dishes. You are of course paying for the view (be sure to read the menu carefully to understand the prices for eating in and takeaway!). Nearby you will find Osteria del Sostegno at 5 Via delle Colonnelle or Ristorante Pizzeria Le Volte at 47 Piazza Rondanini.

To round off your evening, whatever meal you choose, then call in at the Della Palma ice-cream parlour at 19-23 Via della Maddalena, which offers an incredible choice of 150 flavours! An unmissable address in Rome!

Your day 2 schedule at a glance

Day 2 visiting route

Start your day by heading to the impressive St Peter’s Square. You can get there by taking metro line A to the Ottaviano stop. Bus lines 34, 46, 64 and 98 go to the Cavalleggeri/S. Pietro stop.

The colonnades of St Peter’s Square form two arms to welcome you. Have fun with the children finding the two stones on the ground marked Centro del Colonnato, between the fountains and the obelisk. From that spot, the different rows of columns line up as a single row!

Then head for the entrance to St Peter’s Basilica. Waiting time, which can be long, should be expected because of security checks. Be sure to wear covering clothing: shoulders and thighs must be covered!

Shortly after the checks and before going up to the basilica, stop at the Bronze Door, the main entrance to the palace, guarded by the famous Swiss Guards in their Renaissance-inspired uniforms.

The interior of the basilica is impressive and, during your visit, do not forget to linger over the slab at the entrance marking the site of Charlemagne’s coronation, Michelangelo’s Pietà, the statue of St Peter with its foot worn by pilgrims, Bernini’s impressive baldachin above the altar, and the funerary monument of Pope Alexander VII.

After visiting the basilica, you can tackle its dome. Access is from a passage to the right of the basilica and will give you superb views over St Peter’s Square, the Vatican and Rome, as well as over the interior of the basilica. Admission is charged and you can choose to do the first part of the ascent by lift, which will save you 230 of the 550 steps. The second part, climbing the dome itself, is the hardest, through narrow staircases following the curve of the cupola. You need to be in good physical condition and not claustrophobic. Once you have started, there is no turning back! But the effort will reward you with spectacular viewpoints!

At the end of the visit, it is probably time for a break and lunch.

For lunch, you can choose to picnic, for example in the park around Castel Sant’Angelo, which you reach simply by walking up Via della Conciliazione (the broad street aligned with St Peter’s Square). If you want to buy a few things, you will find the essentials at the Carrefour Express at 15/10 Via di Porta Castello, reached by going up Via della Conciliazione then left along Via della Traspontina, which in turn becomes Via di Porta Castello.

For a more elaborate lunch, you need to move away from the Vatican to avoid the many eateries that combine poor service, poor food and exorbitant prices! For a snack on the spot or to take away, you can go to Mama Eat Lab at 28 Borgo Pio. From Via della Conciliazione, turn left into Via dell’Erba, cross through the walls along Vicolo d’Orfeo then right into Borgo Pio.

For a sit-down meal, we suggest Da Romolo alla Mole Adriana at 12 Vicolo del Campanile. From Via della Conciliazione, turn left into Vicolo del Campanile and cross through the walls to reach the restaurant.

After the lunch break, continue with a visit to Castel Sant’Angelo, which children will enjoy. The views over the city are remarkable. A break with a drink in front of one of the openings looking onto St Peter’s Basilica is a magical moment.

Continue the walk by crossing Ponte Sant’Angelo, opposite the castle entrance, and take the chance to admire the statues of Bernini’s school.

Once across the bridge, turn left along the Tiber on Lungotevere Tor di Nona. At the next bridge, continue along the Tiber on Lungotevere Marzio as far as the following bridge, Ponte Cavour.

Then turn right onto Via Tomacelli as far as the next crossroads, Largo degli Schiavoni, where you turn left to reach the Mausoleum of Augustus, the former tomb of the Roman emperor and his family. Take a look at the recently restored monument before retracing your steps and continuing along Via Tomacelli.

Arriving here, you have the option of a shopping break for the children, with two possible choices. Continuing along Via Tomacelli, you will find a Lego Store at no. 142. Continuing to the end of the street and turning right into Via del Corso, there is a Disney store at number 165.

After this shopping stop, reach the end of Via Tomacelli and continue along Via dei Condotti until you arrive at the Spanish Steps, one of the finest squares in Rome. You will discover a superb perspective from the Barcaccia fountain up to the church of Trinità dei Monti, by way of the elegant staircase that links the two.

If you fancy a sweet break, we recommend visiting the Pompi pastry shop, a short walk away at 82 Via della Croce. From the entrance to the square (Via dei Condotti behind you and the steps ahead), turn left to the end then left again into the street where the shop stands. The house speciality is tiramisu, classic or original, and it deserves to be known!

Then continue by climbing the Spanish Steps (Trinità dei Monti), which bring you to the church and the obelisk in front of it.

Turn left at the top of the steps to go from Piazza della Trinità dei Monti to Viale della Trinità dei Monti. You will pass the elegant Villa Medici, seat of the French Academy in Rome, which hosts artists who have won the Prix de Rome. Continue along this road before bearing slightly right onto Viale Adamo Mickievicz, which leads to the broad Pincio terrace. The view from this terrace is particularly fine.

The Pincio park is very pleasant to wander through and will give the children a break. You will also find bikes for hire and riscò (four-wheeled vehicles for four people), which will make it easier to tour the park with children. You will find hire points by going back a little the way you came, as far as Viale dell’Obelisco, which you follow up to just before the bridge over the road. A hire point is usually here; otherwise turn left and go up Viale dell’Orologio to a second hire point.

After your walk in the park, return to the Pincio Terrace and go down to Piazza del Popolo below. This vast square, designed to impress visitors arriving in Rome, lets you admire the elegant gate cut through the ancient wall, the obelisk in its centre, its fountains and the twin churches at the other end.

Discreet, but remarkable for the wealth of artworks it contains, visit the church of Santa Maria del Popolo, beside the gate. Stop before the following works:
- Della Rovere Chapel: just after the entrance, on the right, it contains a very fine 16th-century work by Pinturicchio
- Cerasi Chapel: to the left of the choir, you will find two works by Caravaggio, the Crucifixion of St Peter and the Conversion of St Paul. In the latter, Paul, then a persecutor of Christians, has just fallen from his horse after the appearance of the Divine Light that speaks to him, which led to his conversion. Chiaroscuro, Caravaggio’s speciality, makes this remarkable staging possible.

Now head for the Trevi Fountain. Pass between the twin churches of Piazza del Popolo and go up Via del Corso until you find Piazza Colonna on your right. Easy to spot thanks to the Column of Marcus Aurelius standing here. This column, designed on the same model as Trajan’s Column, illustrates the emperor’s wars against the Germanic peoples.

Just after this square, turn left into Via dei Sabini, which you follow uphill. The street then becomes Via dei Crociferi, which you continue along until you reach Rome’s most famous fountain, the Trevi Fountain. Neptune reigns at the centre of this allegory of the ocean, with water cascading from every side. The fountain is still fed by a spring, the Acqua Virgine, brought by a Roman aqueduct.

This will of course be the moment to respect the tradition of throwing two coins into the fountain, one to make a wish, the other to be sure of returning to Rome! For a perfect throw, hold the coins in your right hand, turn your back to the fountain and toss them over your left shoulder!

You can dine in the area; there are many restaurants here. A few steps from the fountain we suggest the restaurant Il Chianti Vineria, which we particularly like, at 82 Via del Lavatore. To reach it, take the street on your right when facing the fountain; after a few dozen metres, the restaurant is on a small square on your left.

For a quick meal, you can rely on Pane e Salame at 19 Via Santa Maria in Via. To reach it, take the street on your left when facing the fountain, go up it for a few dozen metres, then take the second street on the right, where the wine and sandwich bar is located.

For a sweet break you can choose between a delicious tiramisu at Pompi (right next to Pane e Salame mentioned in the previous paragraph) or an ice cream at San Crispino, a Rome institution at 42 Via della Panetteria. To reach the ice-cream parlour, take the street on your right when facing the fountain, go up the street then turn into the second street on your left.

To end your day, you can head for the beautiful Piazza del Quirinale, where the former summer palace of the popes stands — today the seat of the Italian Presidency. To reach it, turn your back to the fountain and take Via di S. Vincenzo, then on your left Via della Dataria, which brings you onto the square.

Your day 3 schedule at a glance

Day 3 visiting route

Start your day by heading to the famous ancient ruins of the city of Ostia Antica. Coming from Rome, the most practical option is to take the train from Porta San Paolo station and get off at Ostia Antica station. Then follow the signs, which will take you across a footbridge over the road.

To reach Porta San Paolo station, you can use the metro (line B) to Piramide station or one of the bus lines serving Piazzale Ostiense/Piramide (lines 77, 769, 775, 23, 280 …). The train journey uses a simple metro ticket, with a daytime departure every 15 minutes.

In terms of organisation, you will probably be at Ostia Antica at mealtime. Inside the site, only a cafeteria of very poor quality is available… We therefore recommend bringing a picnic with you.

On site, many remains will interest children:
- the Baths of Neptune with their fine mosaics, where you will easily recognise the god drawn by sea horses, as well as the palaestra area where exercises were carried out
- the Caserma dei Vigili, which was the firefighters’ barracks
- the theatre
- the Square of the Corporations was surrounded by merchants’ shops. Have fun identifying their activity and city of origin by studying the floor mosaics at the shop entrances.
- an ancient bakery with its wheat mills, and apartment blocks that help you imagine life at the time.
- the Thermopolium, a fast-food venue of the period, is also fascinating
- in the Forum Baths, you can discover the public toilets of the time
- pass by the House of the Charioteers before reaching
- the House of Cupid and Psyche, which is superbly decorated

At the end of the visit, return towards Rome as far as Porta San Paolo station. From here, you can take tram line 3 towards Stazione Trastevere.

Trastevere is a very lively, popular district, even though its character has become more “bobo” in recent years. Nightlife here is very lively.

Get off at the Trastevere Min. Istruzione stop. You can then take tram 8 towards Venezia as far as the Belli stop, or continue on foot (7 minutes) down Viale di Trastevere (the Ministry of Education should be on your left as you walk).

Follow this axis as far as Piazza Sidney Sonnino, simply a continuation of the previous street. Make a brief stop at the Basilica of San Crisogono on your left. (If you took the tram to Belli, turn your back to the bridge and reach the basilica a few dozen metres further on on your right.) Inside, admire the fine example of a cosmatesque floor, a 13th-century geometric mosaic. The nave columns date from the 4th century and belonged to the early church.

Then pass beside the basilica and go up Via della Lungaretta. You can take the chance for a break at no. 96, at the Fiordiluna ice-cream parlour, one of the best in the district.

Continue along the same street until you reach Piazza di Santa Maria, the historic and lively heart of the district. The Basilica of Santa Maria occupies a corner of the square. Before going in, admire the mosaics on the façade with, at the centre, a Virgin and Child. Inside, the floor is a remarkable cosmatesque work, but the mosaics of the arch and the choir are the masterpiece of the place.

Leave the basilica with it on your left to turn left into Via della Paglia, then take Vicolo della Frusta on the right, which leads to a staircase that brings you out onto Via Garibaldi.

Cross the road and continue along Via di Porta S. Pancrazio. You can freshen up at the start of the street at the charming fountain bearing the arms of the Barberini family (the bees) before climbing this street that ends in a flight of steps. At the top of the steps, pass to the left to admire the monumental Fontana dell’Acqua Paola. Built on the orders of Pope Paul V, it is the outlet of Trajan’s aqueduct, restored at that time to supply this part of the city with drinking water. Fine view from the terrace opposite.

Then retrace your steps and continue along Passeggiata del Gianicolo with the fountain behind you. This pleasant walk on the Janiculum Hill will bring you to Piazza Garibaldi, from where you can enjoy a remarkable view over the city. The golden evening light makes the viewpoint splendid.

Return the same way to reach the centre of Trastevere and end your evening there.

For dinner you will find a wide choice of restaurants near Piazza di Santa Maria. We recommend, for example, Tonnarello at 1 Via della Paglia. This street opens onto Piazza di Santa Maria; simply turn left into the street on the basilica side.

Opposite the previous address, the restaurant Grazia & Graziella is also recommended, at 5 Largo M.D Fumasoni Biondi. You will find it by going up Via della Paglia, which opens onto Piazza di Santa Maria. Simply turn left into the street on the basilica side.